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| 2D Code on Aluminum Strip |
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Posted by: Keganhirl - 07-10-2019, 08:51 AM - Forum: Knowledge & Technique
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A supplier of metal coil and strip processing equipment turned to Matthews Marking Systems when their customer—an aluminum strip manufacturer—needed to implement 2D data matrix code for enhanced traceability without slowing down their existing production line speeds. Their existing marking equipment was unable to produce the 2.25 x 1.125 inch (57.15 x 28.575 mm) 2D codes and text. Additionally, all supplied equipment must withstand a harsh operating environment of a metal factory.
Requirements included:
[ul]
[li]Printheads capable of marking variable data matrix codes and text in multiple combinations[/li]
[li]Ability to produce high-contrast, easily visible and crisp marks[/li]
[li]Fast-drying ink capable of adhering to aluminum[/li]
[li]Ability of the printhead solution to meet production speeds of 200 feet-per-minute[/li]
[li]Universal controller to manage and direct printhead movement, camera-based mark timing and quality verification, print counter, and ink supply monitoring[/li]
[/ul]
[b]Matthews’ Solution[/b]
Matthews recommended their large character drop-on-demand (DOD) marking system, VIAjet™ V-Series, with two 32-valve 8000+ printheads. The Matthews’ printheads feature micro-valve technology that lowers ink consumption while producing high-quality, crisp marks in sizes ranging from 0.125 to 5 inches (3.175 to 127 mm) at high speeds. To maintain production speeds and minimize operator intervention, each printhead is equipped with large capacity ink system pumps. The recommended ink—SCP-411A Black—is formulated to adhere to aluminum and dry quickly, which was then increased with the addition of inline heaters to dry the marks immediately upon printing. Additionally, the solution included the integration of vision systems for quality grading. This feature, along with a print counter, mark timing and ink level monitoring, are all controlled by Matthews’ marking and coding automation platform, MPERIA[sup][size=2]®[/sup]. By utilizing a custom software solution with plug-ins and an I/O module, MPERIA communicates with and synchronizes all components to produce accurate, variable data matrix codes at speeds of 200 feet-per-minute. Further, MPERIA communicates with the plant’s host software to obtain the correct coding data for a given production run. For protection against the harsh environment, a special MPERIA controller enclosure was included[/size]
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| How to Strip Aluminum Wheels |
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Posted by: Keganhirl - 07-10-2019, 08:49 AM - Forum: aluminium faq
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Aluminum wheels are protected with clear coat or with paint. Over time the protective coating or paint can become damaged by dirt, grime, and road debris. Little nicks and scratches make the wheels look old and worn. In order to repair the wheels, it is necessary to completely strip off the clear coat or paint. Once the wheels are stripped, and the minor nicks and scratches are sanded out, the wheels are ready to be repainted or sprayed with a clear coat.
[size=3][size=4]Step 1
Protect the tires or remove the tires from the wheels. Applying a chemical stripper to the wheel is a necessary step in stripping the clear coat or paint from an [size=3]Aluminum wheels. The best strategy is to have a professional tire shop remove the tires from the wheels. The second alternative is to cover the wheels with newspapers and masking tape. If you choose the second option, stripping the wheels will be more time-consuming because it is necessary to work more cautiously and slowly with the stripper. If the stripper drips on the newspaper it needs to be wiped off immediately.[/size][/size][/size]
[size=4]Step 2
Wash the wheels with a mild detergent and water. Scrub the [size=3]Aluminum wheels was a rag or abrasive pad to remove dirt, debris and grime. Rinse the wheels with clean water and dry them with a lint-free towel.[/size]
[/size]
[size=4]Step 3
Spray the wheels with a chemical stripper. Work on one wheel at a time. Spray the [size=3]Aluminum wheels with the stripper. The stripper will immediately begin to bubble, but allow it to penetrate for ten or fifteen minutes.[/size][/size]
[size=4]Step 4
Scrub off the paint or top coating with a wire brush and plastic paint scraper. Use fine steel wool to get into the nooks and crannies.[/size]
[size=3][size=4]Step 5
Spray the [size=3]Aluminum wheels with chemical stripper again. Wipe the wheels with mineral spirits and steel wool. Rinse the wheels with clean water and dry them with a lint-free towel.[/size][/size]
[/size]
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| 2XXX:Aluminum Copper Filler Alloys |
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Posted by: Keganhirl - 07-10-2019, 08:35 AM - Forum: Knowledge & Technique
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The only 2XXX filler alloy readily available is 2319. This alloy contains copper (Cu), manganese (Mn), and titanium (Ti), and it was designed as a matching filler metal for the 2219 alloy. It is also used quite successfully for welding aluminum armor alloy 2519. This heat-treatable alloy responds to postweld heat treatment, resulting in increased strength. Other than that, it really has no other application.
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| 5XXX: Aluminum Magnesium Filler Alloys |
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Posted by: Keganhirl - 07-10-2019, 08:34 AM - Forum: Knowledge & Technique
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he 5XXX fillers, of which 5356 is the most common, often are simple AlMg binary alloys. With these, the higher the Mg content, the stronger the welds. Some higher-strength 5XXX fillers, such as 5556 and 5183, also have manganese added to further increase the strength.
The weld appearance is not as smooth because 5XXX fillers are not as fluid and because of the presence of Mg, which sometimes leaves behind a black weld residue, especially during GMAW.
However, the mechanical properties of the 5XXX fillers are much better than those of the 4XXX fillers. The ductility of 4043 filler is between 6 and 10 percent, while that of 5356 is about 25 percent. The shear strength of 5356 is approximately 50 percent higher than that of 4043.
While the tensile strength of 5356 is also greater than that of 4043, this advantage is usually negated by the fact that in most cases the heat-affected zone (HAZ) of a groove weld is the weak point, not the weld itself.
The 5XXX alloys are used for three main types of applications. First, they are used to join 5XXX base materials to each other. In this application, the general rule is to use a filler alloy with slightly more Mg than the base alloy. - 5554 or 5754 is used to weld alloys with low Mg content like 5052, 5154, and 5454.
- 5356 is used to weld intermediate-strength alloys such as 5086 and 5083. Sometimes 5183 is selected for increased mechanical properties.
- 5183, 5556, and 5087 are used to weld the highest-strength 5XXX alloys.
Second, in an equally important application, the 5XXX fillers, specifically 5356, often are used to weld the 6XXX base alloys such as 6061 and 6063 when mechanical property considerations are paramount.
Finally, 5XXX fillers, again primarily 5356, should be used to weld 5XXX and 6XXX alloys when the weldment will be anodized after welding. As mentioned previously, if a 4XXX filler is used in this application, the welds will anodize to an unattractive black color.
5XXX fillers should not be used to weld 3XX casting alloys, such as A356 and A319, because these materials contain a lot of Si and excessive magnesium silicide will be formed.
When it comes to selecting the proper filler alloy, operators must understand their application and its objectives and also know their base material and its properties. This knowledge will affect which filler metal to use. Careful consideration of all factors involved will pave the way for making the right filler metal choice with confidence and with a successful end result.
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| 4XXX:Aluminum Silicon Filler Alloys |
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Posted by: Keganhirl - 07-10-2019, 08:32 AM - Forum: Knowledge & Technique
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Featuring silicon (Si) as the primary alloying element, the most common 4XXX fillers, 4043 and 4047, are simple binary AlSi alloys. Some of the 4XXX fillers, such as 4643 and 4010, have a small amount of Mg, which helps to make the weld heat-treatable to more closely match the base metal properties. This is especially important in applications where the welded assembly will be completely reheat-treated—solution heat-treated, quenched, and aged—after welding.
Some 4XXX filler alloys also are made to match various casting alloys, such as R-A356.0 and R-A357.0. These fillers are used in foundries to repair 3XX castings before they are heat-treated so that the chemistry of the weld matches that of the casting.
The AlSi filler metals are characterized by excellent fluidity and very good resistance to weld cracking. In addition, they are less prone to develop porosity in the weld than the 5XXX fillers.
The 4XXX fillers are widely used to weld 6XXX extrusions and sheet or plate. They are also used to weld castings to 6XXX alloys and to themselves. In fact, during welding of 6XXX alloys, which are prone to cracking, the AlSi chemistry of the 4XXX filler, when diluted with the 6XXX base alloy, provides a weld chemistry that is highly crack-resistant.
It is not recommended that welders use 4XXX fillers to weld AlMg 5XXX alloys, such as 5083. The high Si content of the 4XXX alloys, when combined with the high Mg of the 5XXX base material, produces the intermetallic compound magnesium silicide, which is an exceptionally brittle substance. Consequently, the weld tends to have poor ductility and toughness. The one exception is welding 5052 using 4043. This works because 5052 has a low Mg content. Base material 5052 also can be welded using 5XXX fillers.
While 4XXX fillers are stronger than 1XXX fillers, they are soft enough that feeding difficulties sometimes occur in gas metal arc welding (GMAW). For this reason, push/pull guns and feeders are recommended but not always necessary with larger diameters.
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| 1XXX: Essentially Pure Aluminum Filler Alloys |
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Posted by: Keganhirl - 07-10-2019, 08:31 AM - Forum: Knowledge & Technique
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general, 1XXX alloys are very pure, which makes them good candidates for applications in which the primary characteristic of the weldment is excellent electrical conductivity. None of these alloys are sensitive to cracking. That being said, it is best to match the filler alloy to the parent material being welded. For example, an operator would use 1100 filler to weld 1100 parent material.
Sometimes it might be difficult or impossible to find an exact match. In such a situation, a welder should use a filler alloy that is at least as pure as the parent material. Purity is specified in the last two digits of the alloy designation for 1XXX series. For example, 1100 is 99.0 percent pure and 1070 is 99.7 percent pure.
It is not a good idea to use 1XXX filler alloys for welding non-1XXX series base material, nor should they be used to weld 1XXX base material to a base material in a different series. In these situations, the weld will draw in alloying additions from the base alloy being welded, resulting in crack-sensitive weld chemistry.
The 1XXX filler wires are very soft and can be problematic to feed. As a result, a push/pull torch is recommended with these filler alloys.
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| Choosing the right aluminum filler alloy |
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Posted by: Keganhirl - 07-10-2019, 08:30 AM - Forum: Knowledge & Technique
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Many fabricators faced with an aluminum project often wonder what the best filler metal is for the job. The answer depends on the specific application and the filler characteristics that are most important for that application. By considering the following application factors, fabricators can determine which filler alloy to use.
Factor No. 1: Cracking Susceptibility
Aluminum cracking, commonly referred to as hot cracking, occurs as the aluminum weld solidifies. The solidifying weld’s chemistry is the single most important factor in determining cracking sensitivity. This chemistry is determined by the base metal, the filler metal, and the weld dilution. Therefore, the specified filler alloy plays a crucial role in determining cracking sensitivity.
Factor No. 2: Final Weld Strength
Both the substrate and the type of weld can affect choice of filler material and ultimately weld strength. When using aluminum, fabricators rarely obtain a weld that is as strong as the base metal. In groove welds, the tensile strength of the weld is critical as the weld is usually stressed in tension. In contrast, in lap or fillet welds, the shear strength of the weld is critical since the weld is usually stressed in shear. Different filler metals have differing tensile and shear strengths.
Factor No. 3: Weld Appearance and Aesthetics
Different alloys can provide a variety of finished-weld appearances. Some filler alloys have a greater tendency to produce a black, sooty residue on the weld surface, while others tend to be more fluid and easier to wet-in.
The 4XXX series, known as AlSi filler metals, have excellent fluidity, which gives an exceptional weld appearance and very good resistance to weld cracking. In addition, these filler metals are less prone than the 5XXX series alloys to develop porosity in the weld.
In determining the proper filler metal in respect to weld appearance, welders should also consider whether the final part will be anodized
after welding. Anodizing is an electrochemical process that produces a relatively thick coating of aluminum oxide on the surface of aluminum. This coating is very hard but porous enough to absorb organic dyes. While the final anodized coating results in a clear satin color, some alloys may impart a slight color cast to the anodizing. If desired, an organic dye can be infused into the coating later, providing a decorative wear surface on aluminum components. 5XXX series filler alloys should be used in this case to provide the best color match. If a 4XXX series filler is used, the weld will become an unattractive black color after anodizing.
Factor No. 4: Maritime Service or Corrosive Environments
In most cases, the base material the welder uses plays the biggest role in resisting corrosion. The filler metal is chosen primarily to be a match.
Factor No. 5: Elevated-temperature Service
It is a well-known phenomenon that 5XXX alloys containing more than 3 percent magnesium (Mg) can be sensitized to stress-corrosion cracking with exposure to temperatures of more than 150 degrees F for extended periods of time—as in an automotive engine cradle, for example. Other base metal alloys with less than 3 percent Mg, such as 5454, were developed for such service. Matching filler alloys, such as 5554, are available to weld these alloys.
Factor No. 6: Deformation Under Stress
Ductility is not an important filler metal characteristic for most welding applications. However, it becomes important if the weldment is to be deformed after welding by rolling or bending.
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| Analysis for relative motion in ultrasonic welding of aluminium sheet |
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Posted by: Keganhirl - 07-10-2019, 08:28 AM - Forum: Knowledge & Technique
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Ultrasonic welding of pure aluminium sheets was observed with a high speed video camera. The dynamic vibration behaviours of a welding tip and aluminium sheets were analysed using the digital image correlation method. The welding process consisted of the following three stages. First, the upper specimen in contact with the weld tip vibrated. The formation of partially welded regions was confirmed at this stage. Second, the vibration amplitude of the upper specimen decreased, while friction between the weld tip and the upper specimen increased. Growth of the partially bonded region was confirmed in the second stage. Third, the welding part began to plastically deform owing to the clamping force. The joint strength reached its maximum value at the third stage. The analysis demonstrated that the relative motion between the weld tip and the upper specimen predominantly affected the increase in joint strength.
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| Sheet aluminum alloys for cans and cars |
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Posted by: Keganhirl - 07-10-2019, 08:27 AM - Forum: Knowledge & Technique
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You probably have heard about the aluminum truck, and maybe your first reaction had to do with crushing a beer can on your forehead. I can’t do anything about that instinct, but I can try to enlighten you about some of the different grades of sheet aluminum and where you will find them.
Aluminum grades are designated by four numbers and are grouped into families that have the same major alloying additions and properties. The first digit in the grade number indicates the general family. When referring collectively to that specific family, the last three digits are shown as the letter X. For example, 5XXX indicates the 5000 series of aluminum alloys.
When numbers are the last three digits, a specific alloy is being described. The second digit indicates if the aluminum has alloy modifications (but not what they are), and the last two digits have no significance aside from distinguishing between alloys.
What this means is that only the first digit gives an indication of the composition and uses. The composition limits of specific rolled alloys are found in the Aluminum Association Teal Sheets.
The highest-purity aluminum grades are part of the 1XXX family, which are at least 99 percent aluminum. Since there isn’t much else in the structure, these are the softest, lowest-strength grades and have the highest electrical and thermal conductivity.
Cans
What about that beer can? State-of-the-art machines are capable of making over 3,000 beverage cans per minute, which contributes to a U.S. production of more than 100 billion cans per year. The chosen sheet metal needs to be soft enough to accommodate this manufacturing volume and speed, but strong enough to withstand filling, shipping, and stacking.
A beverage can body usually is made from AA3004. Alloys from the 3XXX series have about 1 percent manganese (Mn) added, but AA3004 also has 1 percent magnesium (Mg) for further strengthening that allows the finished can to maintain sufficient integrity with the thinnest possible wall. The incoming sheet aluminum starts at about 250 microns, or 0.01 inch. After forming with a draw and wall ironed (DWI) operation, beer can bodies have a wall thickness of 100 microns (0.004 in.) at their thinnest point.
The tops need to be stronger to open properly and consistently using the riveted pull tabs. To get the higher strength, it’s necessary to use a different alloy family—5XXX. AA5182 has 4.5 percent Mg and 0.3 percent Mn as the main alloying additions, which provide a balance between high strength and formability. The incoming aluminum stock is about the same thickness as the body metal (250 microns), but does not go through the same degree of work hardening as the can walls do during the DWI process. As such, the part strength and finished thickness of the lids are not significantly different from the incoming coil. To minimize the weight and increase the stiffness, the top of the can body is necked down so the lid does not have to be the same diameter as the majority of the body.
Incorporating these two alloys, today’s beverage cans weigh 13 grams, or less than half an ounce. Weight is important for several reasons. The most obvious one is that less metal needs to be purchased. Lighter cans also offer shipping and stacking efficiencies; significantly more can fit on a truck or on the shelf. Furthermore, the main alloying additions in the grades used for the body and the lid are Mn and Mg, which makes efficient and cost-effective recycling possible.
When a can is full of a carbonated beverage, its strength and stiffness are sufficient to support hundreds of pounds. Reportedly, four six-packs can support the weight of a 4,000-lb. vehicle. Without the internal pressure, the can buckles because of its low strength and light gauge.
Chart courtesy of www.aluminum.org.
Cars
Automotive applications do not have the luxury of being pressurized, so panels need to be stamped from higher-strength alloys having a thickness typically greater than 1,000 microns (0.040 in.). AA5182 is used throughout the body structure, along with other grades from the 5XXX family. Although this grade provides the necessary strength, it cannot be used for skin panels because it is prone to stretcher-strain marks or Lüders lines, which print through a painted surface.
Products formed from the 6XXX series are not plagued by these visually unappealing features and have the added bonus of getting stronger when processed through a paint-curing cycle. This characteristic helps increase vehicle exterior denting resistance. Typical alloys from this family have additions of 0.75 percent Mg and 0.75 percent silicon (Si).
The Si addition is important to the properties of 6XXX alloys, but is an unwanted impurity in 5XXX alloys. This makes 5XXX with 6XXX grades incompatible for recycling together and leads to costly manufacturing scrap segregation. To get around this, some companies have chosen to use 6XXX series for both exposed and unexposed panels, even though they will probably pay a price premium compared with the 5XXX series.
High-volume vehicle manufacturers have the ability to negotiate restricted chemistry ranges to allow for easier recycling streams, which aids in their business case to switch to aluminum from steel in their vehicles’ body construction.
One of the things working in steel’s favor as a body material choice is that it has three times the elastic modulus of aluminum alloys. This means springback will be one-third that of aluminum for the same design at the same sheet metal thickness.
Steel stiffness also is greater by a factor of 3. To compensate for the lower stiffness, aluminum panels need to be thicker than a similar steel panel. This negates some of the weight advantage aluminum has over steel and further increases the panel cost.
When using a thinner aluminum sheet, it is necessary to use a higher-strength grade. That’s where the 7XXX series is starting to make some inroads. The main alloying element in this series is zinc (Zn). This increased strength is the reason Apple is switching to 7XXX series aluminum from the 6XXX series used in the iPhone® models associated with “Bendgate.”
Historically, these grades were not used in automotive applications because they lacked sufficient ductility to be formed into complex shapes. Within the past year or two, some 7XXX alloys have been commercialized that have higher formability, and many automakers are evaluating their use in future models.
Nearly every military vehicle and airplane has contained aluminum from the 5XXX and 6XXX series for decades. These “military grades” are not significantly different from conventional grades used for many years in lower-volume, higher-end passenger cars. Recent regulations on fuel economy and emissions have positioned these grades for an increasing number of applications on a wider spectrum of mass-mark
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| Papercraft With Aluminium Cans |
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Posted by: Keganhirl - 07-10-2019, 08:22 AM - Forum: Knowledge & Technique
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i wanted to see if papercrafting was possible using aluminium cans (ie. Coke cans), I did a bit of a google around and there doesn't seem to be a lot of information on the subject, so I figured I'd do some research and try a few techniques out to see what I could come up with. I've split this into sections to make it a little easier to read.
If you've never made anything out of papercraft before, I suggest you look elsewhere Papercraft Museum and make something out of paper, it takes a significant amount of more effort (and time) to work with aluminium.
Step 1: Flattening Aluminium Cans
First up, I used a knife to cut the top and bottom off the can (you can use scissors, but you'll need to use a knife to get a start to it) and then using scissors to chop the cans into a piece I can flatten. After you've cut them into sheets like that, neaten the edges by using a pair of scissors to cut them straight and make sure there's no little sharp bits.
The method for flattening the cans that I've found works best is to use a sandwich maker (an old one, don't ruin your good sandwich maker!!). Before turning it on, lay down a piece of baking paper on the bottom, put about 4 cans in, then add another layer of baking paper on the top (this should help prevent at least a little bit of damage to the sandwich maker).
Hold the cans down flat as you close the lid, once you've done that, turn the sandwich maker on.
I haven't fully experimented with getting the best efficiency here, but I left it on for 10 minutes with 4 cans in there, then turned it off and let it cool before I opened it.
Taadaa! Flat cans!
Other methods I have tried are:
* Ironing (Does nothing)
* Ironing and bending at the same time. This method works, but you end up with your piece looking a little bit bent as it's hard to get it as flat as you would in a sandwich maker.
* Clamping it between 2 pieces of wood. This does absolutely nothing, if you leave it for a day or a week, they bend right back to their natural shape.
It seems like heat is very important in getting these things to stay flat.
Step 2: Cutting the Sheets
I printed my design out on paper first, cut the paper version out then used it to trace onto the sheet. You may end up with pieces that're bigger than the can, so you'll have to deal with this by splitting it into 2 pieces.
Also, because the cans are way thicker than paper, you'll end up with parts that will fall short because the thickness of the paper messes it up. I just dealt with it as I went and it may have resulted in a less than perfect final product, the design would probably have to be altered to give a bit of room in some corners to account for the extra thickness.
Using a knife is practically useless, you just can't drag a knife through aluminium like you can through paper.
Scissors on the other hand are brilliant, it's just like cutting through paper. The only issue is the end of the scissors can cause the aluminium to bend a bit. To counter this, I use a knife to piece the corners, then use the scissors to cut up to them. It's not perfect but does the trick nicely.
You should also score the pieces using whatever you normally use to score, I use a thing that's a bit like a needle on the end of a knife handle.
Folding is pretty simple, just do as you normally do. Be careful about bending too much though, as the metal will weaken the more you bend it!
Step 3: Gluing
This part is rather difficult, I tried a whole bunch of glues to work out how to get it to stick properly, I ended up settling on Contact Cement. (Contact Cement is the sort that you apply to both surfaces, let sit for ~20minutes then push them together).
This part is going to take the majority of your time, I suggest you glue 1-2 pieces at a time, put the contact cement on them, let them sit the full 20 minutes, then push together (hold for ~10 seconds or so to make sure it's solid) before moving onto gluing 2 more pieces. Get a movie out, play some games... It'll take a while.
The contact cement wasn't the greatest however, as if the metal is trying to flex against the glue, it'll pull itself apart unless you sit there holding it for at least 30 seconds, even then it doesn't feel as strong as one would hope.
I didn't end up trying Epoxy however, so that would be a good thing to experiment with.
Other glues I tried:
* Aleene's Original Tacky Glue (the metal surface was too shiny for the glue to stick once it dried). This is the glue of Papercrafting gods that I had to import from the US to Australia. It's very similar to PVA/Wood Glue, just slightly tackier making it awesome for papercraft. Just not for... Aluminiumcraft 
* "Hobby Cement" - Same deal as the Tacky Glue above
* Bostik Multi Bond - Same deal as above, it just can't stick to the metal as well as it should.
Step 4: Finished!
And here's my end result! Would I do it again? Nope, it took me about 3 days to get the whole thing done when the paper version took closer to a couple hours....
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