Normally, when I install a 30-amp dryer receptacle, the wire is #10 copper and I double over the end with lineman\'s pliers prior to landing it in the lug just to be extra tight. Today I replaced a dryer outlet wired with #8 aluminum SE. The quandaray I have is that the lugs seem made for #6 and the #8 just sort of flattens and divides under the screw. Is this safe? The doubling over move makes the wire way too thick for the lugs to close. I\'ve been doing electric for many years and have never run into this. Should I go back and re-run the circuit (only about 30 feet) in #10 copper? What is the actual draw of a typical electric dryer on high heat, anyway? Thanks.I would actually replace the wire, I don\'t like old aluminum branch circuit wiring. If you don\'t replace the wire with copper then make sure you use some anti-oxidant. Usually elements use around 20-22 amps (240v) and the motor runs 3-5 amps (120v), so you need to wire for good connections full circuit capacity.Run 30 feet of 10-3 with ground or take a chance of heating up the dryer\'s receptacle? HM MM! I sure wouldn\'t have a problem making this decision. If you decide to leave the aluminum wire, at least put some NOLOX on it.Copper safer than Alum at high amperagesMake sure all work is done to code, we had a house with aluminum wiring, it gets hot when a larger load is applied. When selling, the couple who bought it had an inspector come and he said we had to do all this work or they could not get a mortgage. Whatever you do, make sure it is fully up to code, or you will have alot of trouble selling your home one day.Consult the NEC for permitted use of different types of cable. Type SE is service entrance. Personally I would replace the wire back to the panel. That is cheaper than a fire in your home. Another issue if you stay with the Al wire is the type of connection on the device must be approved for Al or Cu Al, not Cu only. Typical dryer is wired for a 30 amp circuit and you need the wire rated for that.Other related question