A bit of a question for the 1911 experts roaming around here. Per-say someone, who knew their way around a 1911 built one on an aluminum frame. To top it all off, if the finished gun were to be chambered in .38 super... how long would this combination last? I\'ve heard horror stories about aluminum frames, and then I\'ve heard some wonderful things... this question was to see if anyone had ever thought about/done this sort of thing before. Something tells me that Aluminum + .38 super wouldn\'t last too long... Most informative answer gets the ten point prize as usual.I have two concerns about using an aluminum frame for that caliber. First, and like everyone else who answered, I don\'t think it will stand up to the .38 Super +P for very long (and I wouldn\'t want to be around when it fails). Second, the reason I believe the frame will not last nearly as long as a steel or stainless (my personal suggestion) frame is that the grooves the slide fits and rides in will wear and enlarge MUCH faster than a steel or stainless frame will. This will, in my opinion, also quickly have an adverse affect on accuracy. Aluminum has it\'s place, but I don\'t think it\'s anywhere near this kind of firearm. On a side note, one of the other people who answered said that the aluminum will offer some corrosion resistance. This may generally be true, but salt water (like sweat) attacks aluminum significantly faster than it does steel, and stainless steel is almost non-reactive to it. If he wants a lighter gun for carry, Try an XD45. If I remember right they are rated for .45 +P, but call Springfield Armory to make sure. With the polymer frame they are much lighter than a 1911, and I have been very satisfied with the accuracy and the reliability of mine. Personally, I don\'t think the weight savings of the alloy frame is worth the extra care to keep from sweating on it or the much shorter lifespan the gun will likely have. If he isn\'t planning on carrying it, what is the point of lightening the gun? He\'ll feel a lot more recoil, especially if he does shoot the +P ammo.Alloy is great for one thing. Making a gun lighter to carry around. If it was something I was going to shoot substantial amounts of ammo through, I would stick with a caliber that is a bit lower pressure-wise. No +P ever! You can expect about half the life a steel frame would give you. There are many 1911\'s in 38 Super with alloy frames. How many are shot out is another matter. Personally, I really wouldn\'t worry about it unless you are burning through more than say 100 rounds a month. Even at that, it should be 15 or 20 years before you would have to worry about it. If it\'s going to be a competition gun, ditch the alloy frame in favor of a steel one. The added weight will help minimize muzzle climb.Well you have to take your pick from two solutions: One get a steel frame which is heavier but stronger and can handle higher pressure loads, or an aluminum which is lighter but of a lower strength. What loads are you putting through it, how much are you using it, basic things like that. If you are constantly going to be shooting high powered loads through it, go with steel, if you are only going to use it as a race gun, still go with steel, aluminum is crap it deforms and decreases accuracy and jams much more often then steel.Aluminum might be corrosive resistant but it is softer than a stainless steel frame. It might be possible to shoot .38 super regular loads through it but any .38 super + P might cause a catastrophic failure of the weapon. Just my opinion.Other related question